In the far north of the Netherlands, there is a climbing gym unlike any other in the country. Bjoeks Bjoeks in Groningen has a spacious climbing hall, a distinctive bouldering park and a gigantic outdoor climbing wall called Excalibur. During a visit to friends in Groningen, we could not resist experiencing Bjoeks for ourselves. Above all, we wanted to discover what makes this climbing gym so unique. And of course, we had one important goal: to climb Excalibur.
Bjoeks on a Warm Summer Day
Although Groningen was slightly cooler than the south of the Netherlands, it was still quite warm at around 25 degrees. It was therefore immediately noticeable how pleasantly cool the climbing hall felt inside. After tying in with a figure-eight knot, I started with a few easy climbing routes to warm up. We did not stay indoors for long, however. We wanted to head outside as soon as possible to conquer Excalibur.
Climbing Excalibur
Excalibur is 37 metres high and overhangs by 11 metres. Both sides of the freestanding outdoor wall can be climbed. We started on the slab side to get used to the height. Several ropes were set up for top-rope climbing, but we chose to lead climb instead. With an 80-metre rope, we knew that we could safely climb up and lower back down.
When I reached the top of the wall, I could mainly feel the strain in my calves. Because of the slab, I had to keep constant pressure on my toes. The route was not particularly difficult from a technical perspective, but its length still made it feel like a serious climb.
Now that we were fully warmed up, we moved to the overhanging side. This side mainly tests your endurance. After more than twenty metres, I started to feel my arms becoming pumped. Fortunately, the route had a good resting position where I could recover for a moment. Once you finally reach the top, you are rewarded with a beautiful view over Groningen and the surrounding area.
Between routes, we enjoyed the garden surrounding the outdoor wall. It is beautifully landscaped with plants, trees and plenty of shade. On a warm day, it almost feels like a small oasis where you can recover in peace before starting your next route.
Climbing inside
After climbing several routes on Excalibur, I wanted to try another interesting route indoors. I chose a 7a with holds unlike any I had encountered before: Dragon Eyes by Euroholds. It turned out to be a very enjoyable and surprising route. Although I spotted some routes with newer holds here and there, many of the climbing routes use older holds. Both indoors and outdoors, you will come across plenty of classic holds that are probably around twenty years old.
These holds are generally less ergonomically shaped than modern climbing holds, so they are not always as comfortable to grip. At the same time, they contribute to the nostalgic character of Bjoeks.
The roof
Finally, I wanted to try the roof at Bjoeks. This is an extremely steep overhang that runs almost completely horizontally. You reach this part of the climbing hall via a staircase next to the bar. The roof is not only used for climbing. During children’s parties, it is also used as a swinging area, where children jump from the upper floor and swing back and forth. I chose a 6a with large holds. The route brought back nostalgic memories of when I had only just started climbing.
Bouldering in the Outdoor Park
Although I already felt quite satisfied after all those metres of climbing, I could not resist trying the Bjoeks bouldering park as well. This may be one of the most unique features of the climbing gym. The bouldering park consists of concrete blocks shaped to resemble the boulders of Fontainebleau. Around 150 boulder problems of varying difficulty are spread across the different blocks.
The concrete feels quite rough, but the moves are surprisingly similar to real outdoor bouldering. With the shape of the blocks, the garden and the open space around them, it hardly feels as though you are at an ordinary climbing gym. For us, the bouldering park was the perfect way to end our visit.
I understand that the blocks, or at least some of them, may be removed because a new bouldering area is being added to the climbing gym. If you still want to experience the current bouldering park, it may be wise not to wait too long.
Final thoughts
Bjoeks is a climbing gym unlike any other in the Netherlands. The indoor hall has a nostalgic character, with classic holds and its horizontal roof. Outside, you will find a green garden, unusual concrete bouldering blocks and, of course, the impressive Excalibur climbing wall. It is the combination of indoor climbing, outdoor bouldering and long routes on a 37-metre wall that makes Bjoeks so special. It may not be the most modern climbing gym in the Netherlands, but it is probably one of the most memorable.
Does travelling to Groningen feel too far for a single day? At Bjoeks, you can spend the night in a tent in the garden, allowing you to enjoy the climbing gym for several days.
