Our second stop in this review series is boulder gym Energiehaven in Utrecht. This gym is part of a chain with locations in Leiden, Zwolle, Groningen, and Maastricht. Additionally, a new branch is set to open in 2025 in Deventer — an exciting prospect for bouldering enthusiasts in the Netherlands.
First Impression: Warmth and Outdoor Wall
Upon entering, the cozy atmosphere is immediately noticeable. The scent of the fireplace welcomes you, but your first real impression comes from outside. Despite the evening twilight, the well-lit outdoor walls immediately catch your eye. Unfortunately, due to the cold weather, we couldn't test the outdoor boulders, but that gives us a good excuse to return in the summer.
Layout
The gym is spaciously laid out, with two large "mushroom-shaped" structures centrally positioned in the space. The walls are painted in soothing cream and brown tones, which creates a pleasant ambiance. One section of the gym even offers the possibility for a top out, which means you step out above the wall. At Energiehaven, this leads you into the training area.
The training area itself is located on the first floor and is very well-equipped. Here you'll find two Kilter Boards, a Moon Board, weights, a campus board, and several beastmakers. There's more than enough equipment available for specific training routines.
Dynamic Boulders
At Energiehaven, the difficulty level of boulders is not associated with colors, but with numbers. 1 represents easy boulders, while a 10 indicates the most challenging problems. This system gives route setters a lot of freedom, as a color is not limited to a single difficulty level. For example, a red boulder could sometimes be a 3, and other times a 7. We found this system clear and enjoyable to work with.
The boulder problems themselves are diverse and utilize a wide range of holds and volumes. The style is fairly dynamic, which doesn't mean you're constantly jumping, but small hops or briefly lifting your feet off the wall are common. There's extra consideration for shorter climbers: some boulders are marked with a card XS, which means that the moves are less far apart - a nice detail.
Personal Experience
Bouldering is, of course, very subjective, and what appeals to one person may differ for another. What stood out to me was that in the more difficult boulders (level 9), there was often a preference for small holds and edges. While this is certainly challenging, I would love to see more of the beautiful holds that are available being utilized. This would further enhance the variety at the higher levels.
International Event: Dockmasters
Energiehaven has made a name for itself in recent years with the international event Dockmasters. This annual tournament attracts top climbers from both the Netherlands and abroad. The next edition will take place on January 25 and 26, 2025. Everyone can participate: you can challenge yourself against the masters or choose the recreational class. Registration opens on December 10 — it's highly recommended for anyone looking to experience a great competition in Utrecht.
Final Thoughts
We enjoyed our session at Energiehaven. The gym has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, and the variety of boulders makes it a great place for climbers of all levels. For me, it was also an excellent preparation for this coming Saturday when we will travel to Maastricht for Radium Arcadium.
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