Almost a year ago, we visited Be Boulder in Amsterdam. This bouldering gym was completely different from anything we'd ever seen. Think foam pit, trampolines, and unique wall structures. We made an Instagram video at the time that racked up over 300,000 views. For me, this gym was primarily for fun and games, less so for the regular boulderer.
A few weeks ago, after over three months of renovations, Boulderhal Luchthaven. Time to go back and see what's changed. Has it become a good spot for bouldering in Amsterdam?
New look Boulderhal Luchthaven
The gym has undergone a complete makeover. Absolutely everything has been changed, and it is absolutely stunning. While there is still a separate climbing area for children and the wooden elements remain, the gym has clearly evolved into a serious bouldering gym. Walking through the space feels almost magical. You ascend the wooden stairs while simultaneously seeing climbers on the floors above and below.
From the entrance, you first climb a staircase to the bar. It is spacious, warmly decorated, and immediately feels inviting. As soon as you enter the bouldering gym, you will find the changing rooms downstairs. This is about the only thing that remains the same. There is also a very large training area with equipment and weights, a definite plus for those who want a targeted workout.
The central mushroom has a large overhang on one side and a top-out wall on the other. In addition, the bouldering hall consists of two and a half levels. You can quickly reach the next floor via the staircase. The center of the hall has been left open, which creates a spacious feeling. Unlike some other large bouldering gyms, you do not lose track of each other here easily.
Boulderhal Luchthaven is now part of a larger chain that also includes Energiehaven and Krachtstof. All gyms use the same difficulty scale, ranging from 1 to 10. On the first level, the walls vary from slab climbing to gentle overhangs, with the steeper overhangs concentrated in the corners. Personally, I found these walls rather uninspiring, with few features. They are mostly large, flat surfaces that rely on macros and modular elements to add interest. Fortunately, there is no shortage of these!
Route setting, comp wall and training boards
The first level also houses Tension Board and Kilter Board. The angles of the walls are adjustable, but according to my information they are changed only once a week. During our visit, both boards were set at 30 degrees, which made the Kilter Board in particular feel barely challenging. In addition, you will find the comp wall here. This wall is positioned slightly higher than the first level, which is why I personally consider it to be a level and a half.
I understand the idea behind the comp wall well. Competitive climbers want to train the dynamic movements typical of competition climbing. I found the execution less successful, however, mainly due to the excessive use of tape. Each boulder is set in three levels, and depending on the level you are allowed or not allowed to use certain holds. This was indicated per hold with tape, which, for me, resulted in a cluttered and confusing whole. I am convinced that this wall can be further developed and grow into a venue that attracts top youth talent, both for national and international competitions. Personally, I had had enough after five minutes, and we decided to take a look at the top floor.
Here as well, the walls range from slab to slight overhang, once again with a steep overhang in the corner. In one of these corners there is a kind of spray wall, but with a separate boulder set for each color. It is a fun and playful concept. Do not expect a large number of brand new holds. Be Boulder already had an extensive collection, which has been reused here. Holds from Artic Holds and Stax are complemented by, among others, Flathold and Unit. Personally, I consider it a strong selection, and somewhat more versatile than what you find in most commercial gyms.
The boulders are varied, but I enjoyed myself most on the problems up to and including 6C. Beyond that, they quickly became either powerful pulling on small edges or dynamic jump moves of the kind often seen in competition boulders. Neither really suits me. The slab problems, by contrast, were subtle, technical, and challenging, and those were the ones I truly enjoyed.
Final thoughts
When the renovation was announced, my first thought was whether a rope climbing gym would not have made more sense here. The hall is tall, and at first the multiple levels seemed impractical to me. After more than two hours of bouldering, however, I changed my mind. Despite the height and different levels, the gym has an open and pleasant atmosphere.
Boulderhal Luchthaven has turned out beautifully and offers something for every type of climber. Do not expect anything radically new, but rather a very attractive and solid bouldering gym in Amsterdam where you will happily come to climb. They set the bar very high, and the price-quality ratio is excellent.
